The Pinewood Derby is open to all Cub Scouts. Pinewood Derby Cars should be built by the Cub Scouts with some adult guidance. Any technical assistance should be fully explained to the Cub Scout so that he can use that knowledge on future projects. Because it is difficult to establish how much help was given in building the car, some Packs have a separate Pinewood Derby Race for adults.
IMPORTANT:
The Race Committee should decide on rules and race procedures, then have them
printed and distributed to all participants at least two weeks before the race.
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RULES
Wheel bearings, washers, and bushings are prohibited. The pinewood derby car
shall not ride on springs. Only official Cub Scout Grand Prix Pinewood Derby
wheels and axles are permitted. Only dry lubricant is permitted. Details, such
as steering wheel and driver are permissible as long as these details do not
exceed the maximum length, width and weight specifications. The pinewood derby
car must be free-wheeling, with no starting devices. Each car must pass inspection
by the official inspection committee before it may compete. If, at registration,
a pinewood derby car does not pass inspection, the owner will be informed of
the reason for failure, and will be given time within the official weigh-in
time period to make the adjustment. After final approval, pinewood derby cars
will not be re-inspected unless the car is damaged in handling or in a race.
BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
Check the grooves to ensure that each is at a perfect 90-degree angle to the
pinewood derby car body. A pinewood derby pinewood derby car with untrue axles tends to steer
to one side or the other, causing it to rub up against the side of the lane
strip, slowing it down. You can check the groove angles by using a square, a
protractor, or even a piece of paper.
Lay square on block to check for squareness and alignment of slot.
Use two hacksaw blades side by side to redress the slots. Use the edge of the
square as a guide.
Choose your favorite design, then mark the block accordingly (See Figure 1).
Lay pinewood derby car body on the side, then gently drive the axles into the grooves within
1/4" of the axle head. Axles should fit tight. With a pair of pliers, remove
axlesby pulling and turning gradually (See Figure 2). Repeat on the other side
of block. Most of the cutting can be done with a hand saw, then finished with
sandpaper (See Figure 3). Details such as fins and scoops should be added now.
Any additionweight needed to achieve a totoal of 5 ounces should be built into
the pinewood derby car.
NOTE: If the pinewood derby car design you chose has a narrow body, make sure the
area where the axles are inserted into the body remains 1-3/4" wide, or wheels
will not fit over the guide strips of the track.
PAINTING AND
WHEEL ASSEMBLY
Apply several coats of sanding sealer; then sand entire pinewood derby car with a fine-grade
sandpaper. Give model at least two coats of fast drying paint, in your choice
of color. When paint is completely dry sand with a fine sandpaper, apply a final
coat of paint and allow to dry thoroughly. TO FINISH, rub entire pinewood derby car with a
rubbing compound. Details such as windshield, driver, racing numbers, etc.,
should be added now. For a super finish apply a coat of auto wax and rub to
a high gloss. Pre-lubricate axles and wheels using, dry powdered lubricant.
Do not use regular oil or silicone spray, since it may soften the plastic. Slide
wheels over axles, then gently tap them into the pinewood derby car body grooves with a 1/4"
dowel or similar object to within 1/32" of pinewood derby car body. (See Figure 4). Make sure
wheels turn freely.
Due to many requests we have eliminated the cockpit section in the Pinewood Derby block to allow for more designs.
Copyright ©, 1997, Boy Scouts of America, All Rights Reserved